This was just posted on Allpar… It’s the first real look at the 2018 Jeep Wrangler “JL”. Personally, I like it…. a lot. I do think they could’ve done themselves a favor and not compared it to the PT Cruiser though 😛 The best news to me is the heated steering wheel!
by David Zatz with Allpar:
Here it is — the dashboard of the 2018 Jeep Wrangler, complete with a modern UConnect system.
The next Wrangler combines PT Cruiser-style round vents, which deliver a great deal of air quietly and efficiently with a vintage feel, with the most modern of FCA’s center stack designs. The UConnect system, full sized, dominates the dashboard.
Spy photographer Brian Williams pointed out the manual transmission, adding it would also have “a full suite of off-road oriented devices like sway bar disable and auxiliary control switches for add-on features. The window switches on the center stack also reveal the doors should still be removable.
“New features also include a heated steering wheel, heated seats and dual-zone automatic climate control.”
That’s right! Our overland trailer project is coming to a close…. at least the first phase of it.
We know it’s been a long time since our last update, but frankly we struggled with stopping progress for the sake of posting what progress had been made and instead decided to keep moving forward.
With that being said, a video of where we are now was the best way to make an update.
As mentioned in the video, we did initially set out planning to do a more formal update post. So, here are a few more detail pictures of the progress.
After having the trailer weighed and tagged, I got to work on the wiring. The taillights were temporarily wired and needed to be done better as well as the exterior area lights needed done. Here is a shot of the cables coming into the storage “box” area.
…and then running from the front storage box where they will be controlled from.
This is the control center for the lighting and accessories. Below this panel are two batteries that will not only allow for a ton of 12V capacity, but this panel hinges up for easy access to switch them to a series connection to make 24v (required for our welder).
Beyond that, it was time to mount the tent and test it out. 😛
That’s it! There are still just a few little odds and ends to wrap up on, but we are ready for adventure and not a moment too soon.
We will be sure to post updates as we add things or make modifications, but for the most part Project Ehu is almost done!
Hopefully you have enjoyed following this build. If so, please leave a comment.
We knew the reassembly would go much faster than the process to get to that point, but even we were amazed at just how fast. In fact, so much has changed that we thought it was time for an update in spite of the fact that it hasn’t even been a full week since our last.
If you remember from our last post, we last left off with the floor being set in and sealed. If you missed that post or any of the others, you can get caught up HERE.
With the floor in, we started adding some of the other body panels after a quick pass with a dual action (DA) sander. The first to go on was the front panel which was quickly followed by the floor between the storage box and front tool box. Before any of these panels go on that are on the storage box, we are adding a small bead of silicone to seal the interior space.
Next, I shifted to the top which is held down by the L-tracks on the outside and some rivets in the middle. This thing was a bit too much to handle solo, so I enlisted Kegan for an assist while Alana wrapped up dinner. Thankfully we were able to get it placed and not scratch the paint on the up-rights. The L-tracks have a bolt every 4 inches so this thing is definitely not going anywhere!
We got a little ahead of ourselves after dinner and installed the passenger door and front tool box before realizing we hadn’t taken any pictures since the front panel so this picture has lots of additions. 😛
The following evening was spent on the rear door. If you remember, my original thought was that this door would drop open and possibly be used as a table. Once on, I realized this was a pretty bad plan so I swapped the door over and ordered some gas struts. This door hadn’t been test fitted for this new orientation, but thankfully the holes lined up top and bottom so this went pretty well.
….and a picture of the door closed.
In between panel/door installs, I had been getting the fenders painted and prepped. The inner portion is painted with the same semi-gloss black as the trailer frame but the outer is truck bed liner. This was largely chosen for aesthetic reasons. I just thought the fenders would need a little texture to match the front toolbox.
Here the fenders are all prepped and ready.
Before we could install the fenders, the side panels would need to go on. The majority of which is held in place with rivets. The exception being where there are fender or taillight bracket mounting points.
…. the rivets go pretty quick so, before we knew it, the driver’s side was fender ready.
In a slight redirection of attention, but to utilize a small window of time I had, I installed the safety chains and wrapped up the front jack. No more jack stand(s) holding up the nose!
In an effort to get the trailer weighed so we can get it registered, we made a late night push to wrap up several things. As you can see the passenger side is now done and we have mounted the fenders.
I have also added some reflectors that are needed. I’m not a fan of the looks of them at all, especially the rear facing ones, but many places require rearward facing reflectors on vehicles and/or trailers and since our taillights do not have them built in we had to add some. 😕
Here is a picture of the front of the fender. The cut not only made the fender look a little more “Jeepish” but also allowed me to bias it’s alignment toward the rear of the trailer a bit and away from the side doors.
Continuing with our full-court-press to have the trailer weighed, I got busy on wiring the taillights. Even if it was temporary, I wanted them working before we hit the road.
Klondike has a 7-pin trailer receptacle from the factory and we will be converting Dirty from a 4-pin to a 7. While the trailer doesn’t have brakes, I need the 12V leads to charge the batteries that will be in the trailer to power accessories and our welder.
I scored this really nice cable and distribution box that worked out perfectly.
Here you can see the cable routing from on the tongue.
This cable runs into the front box where I can easily access the leads. It has a cover and cord grips but I have them out for this picture.
Unfortunately, by the time I wrapped everything up we had just missed our window to make it to the weigh station prior to them closing. So, after we tested the lights, we are pretty much stuck and waiting until Monday to get this done.
So there she is, hooked up and ready to be weighed. Any guesses on where she will come in?
After a series of weekly updates on our overland trailer project “Ehu”, we skipped one last Friday. This was largely because most of the week we were going backwards, if anything, in preparation for paint and there really wasn’t much to share. In fact, the only additions that were made were the safety chain, front jack mount, and some tabs for lights.
Having said this, we have received several messages and emails inquiring about where we stood and if an update was coming. So… here it is! 😛
As mentioned, most of the week was spent removing items that were installed for test fit purposes in preparation for paint. We also swapped on a set of old wheels and tires so we wouldn’t have to worry about overspray on the wheels Mrs. SSS worked so hard to clean.
Saturday, we rolled the trailer out of the shop and gave it a thorough wipe down and cleaning with mineral spirits.
After some dry time, I did some seam sealing along where the box meets the lower frame structure. I didn’t want to fully weld this in fear of warping everything from the heat. After that dried, it was ready for the first coat of primer.
There was a brief moment I thought about getting fancy with the paint, but reality set in that it will likely need touched up often so I came back to our normal semi-gloss black. This needed to be applied in a series of pretty light coats since the temps were fairly close to the low range of what Rustoleum recommends.
As time permitted I also got going on some of the smaller bolt on items like the taillight brackets and fenders (which you may notice have been cut to look a bit more “Jeepy”)
This is pretty much where things wrapped up for the weekend. Monday night Kegan and I went out to run taps through all the threaded holes to clear any paint in them, but we wanted to let the paint harden and set up more before moving on.
Then, last night (Tuesday) we set the floor in and sealed it. This is the first step in the reassembly that we hope will go fairly smooth and quick.
The picture of last night’s progress wasn’t taken until this morning. You may have also noticed the trailer side of the Lock-N-Roll hitch is now on along with the caps for the upper cross bars. (Sorry for the horrible picture, my phone refused to focus and I needed to get to work.)
So there it is….. not much of an update at all, but things should roll more quickly now and we will try to keep up to date. Thank you to all that are following!
I made a bunch of progress this week, the largest part being over the weekend while Mrs. SSS was away being wilderness first-aid trained and certified. Apparently, she wants to keep us around and alive in the backcountry. 😛
Saturday morning I started to figure out how I was going to mount the Maxtrax to the trailer. I had already put a bit of thought into this and put the spread of the horizontal cross bars inline with the hole spread of them. This allowed for a pretty simple bracket and gusset to do the job.
This worked out pretty well and easily. In fact, the toughest part was testing them. Since the Maxtrax mounting posts are only supplied with plastic insert type locking nuts, I didn’t want to install them fully until everything is done and painted. The bungee strap at the top of the tracks is there to hold them in place for this picture, but if anyone had seen me contorting to get everything lined up by myself like this they would’ve had a good laugh!
With this done, I shifted to mounting the doors for the main storage box. I started with the front doors. Moments after having the first one mounted, I realized that the way I had positioned the angle iron for the frame would force some rework on the latching bracket. This was an error on my part that cost me a couple hours to make brackets to correct the problem. Alternatively, I could’ve cut the frame support out and re-positioned it, but I thought that would take even longer.
I went ahead and made both side brackets at the same time, so the other side door went pretty smoothly.
The rear door installation went smoothly as well, but once on, I realized I didn’t like having the door drop open. I originally thought it would be nice to have this like a little table. After seeing it in real life open, I’m not sure it will be as useful for this as it will be at making loading and unloading difficult. So, I decided to order some gas struts and this door will be flipped over on final installation. I’m hoping the bolts are lined up for this. They appear to be when I measured, but it would be easy for them to be off a bit and make for a big pain.
Next, I decided to cap the tongue tube and drill the holes for the Lock-N-Roll hitch. Capping the tube really isn’t needed, but all of the tube is (or will be) sealed everywhere else and I didn’t want it filling up with crud from the trail.
Sunday morning I didn’t have much I was able to do without hitting up the hardware store. I let Kegan sleep in a bit while I mounted the front box that, up to this point, had just been sitting in place. I pulled out several mounting techniques for this depending on what I was mounting to. It sits on 1/4″ wall tube that is thick enough to hold threads, angle iron that isn’t, and 0.120″ wall tube that I can’t get to the inside of. My fix: 2 tapped holes, 2 through holes, and 2 rivnuts!
After visiting what seemed like every store that sells hardware in the county, I headed back to the shop to begin cutting the rest of the box skin. This job ended up consuming far more time than I thought, but the aluminum sheet is pretty expensive and I certainly don’t want to waste any. So measuring 39 times before cutting is warranted!
I got the bottom, front, and one of the rear sides out of one sheet. Before I got the other sheet ready, I went ahead and cut the L-track rails since its bolts are what will hold the top sheet in place.
It’s sad to say, but this was where things ended Sunday evening. Some things just take far longer than you expect…..
Not much progress was made this week. It was just too cold for me to want to be in the shop.
I did get out to install the spare tire mount that will hold the tire back against the front wall of the box. The tire will also have a ratchet strap over it to hold it down once done.
After a test fit, I was pleased to see the front toolbox opens perfectly with the spare in place.
The last thing I did this week was test the rubber molding that I hope will solve the narrow fender issue. So far it looks really promising. I will leave it on to see if it sags a bunch this week.
For now, the fender is just sitting in place for this pic. It will be getting modified a bit before being mounted.
That’s it for this week’s progress. Check back next week for more!
Just like that another week has passed and it’s time for another update on the overlanding trailer.
I’ll begin with the upper load bars; we had been back and forth on whether we were going to put them on or not. The aluminum bars that the tent will mount with would’ve spanned the primary (outer) rails but I didn’t like the clamps being this far to the outside of the trailer and going this direction. The final push to us adding them was we were still a couple inches short of the minimum height needed for our tent’s annex. While we thought it would be okay, these bars will bring the tent to the proper height.
Even once we decided to add them they changed shape and length a few times. At one point I had them extending out off the edges more. The thought was this would be a good spot to mount the LED area lighting. The problem with this was the tent annex again. It will fasten pretty close to the side and there would be interference. So, I chopped them down to only be the width of the trailer.
The thing that took the bulk of our time this week was finally getting the tires on. Bolting everything up was easy enough, but the Timbren hubs needed to be aligned. I’m not going to lie… this was a bit of a PITA! It’s funny that the directions Timbren provide goes on-and-on about making sure the arms are mounted parallel and square to the hitch, but then there is so much play in the bolt holes for the spindle assembly almost all of this effort becomes a total waste of time. In spite of the fact our arms were perfectly parallel, The tires had pretty severe toe misalignment that needed to be adjusted.
The only way to do this is to loosen the mounting bolts (that have nuts intended for one use), make an adjustment, tighten and hope the adjustment held. Thankfully Alana was there to help me so this process wasn’t too bad with her measuring while I adjusted. But, if you are solo…. Good Luck!
One thing that worked out perfectly was the Bora adapter/spacer thickness. The Easy-grease hub cap sits exactly where I wanted it. Easy access, but fairly protected as well!
One place I got a little ahead of myself on was the fenders that arrived this week. As you can see below, they cover the tire, but not when mounted against the trailer.
I have some 3″ flexible rubber pinch molding on the way to hopefully fix this. The advantage to it is that it will move the fender back and out of harm’s way while the flexible trim covers the outer portion of the tires. My concern is if the rubber will sag and end up not providing enough coverage. Especially since I really need an additional 3.5-4″ in width.
I am also kicking around just making my own fenders and selling these. I’ll wait to see how I think the molding will work before making this call.
Finally, just last night I wrapped up the taillight brackets. They will do a pretty good job of protecting the taillights and wiring (which will run into the box). While I am pretty happy with them, if I end up making my own fenders, I may move a different type of taillight onto them. This would open up the rear corner posts for a swing away type carrier (future mod).
So, there it is…where we are after this week’s progress. We finally have her rolling and check out that clearance!
Alana has wilderness first aid training/certification this weekend so I hope to do a bunch of work on this over the weekend even though it’s going to be cold. My goal is to be able to make use of the next warm spell we have and get the frame painted. So keep an eye out for updates and tell us what you think by commenting.
A fair amount of this week’s progress on the overland trailer wasn’t in things you can actually see. Instead, I put some effort into ordering several parts that would soon be holding us up and figured out some things that I wasn’t sure on. For example, I knew we needed tail lights and a way to hold the spare tire in place but hadn’t actually put much thought into how that would actually work. As you will soon see, I now have those things figured out (mostly).
Last weekend was spent focusing on other things and no trailer progress was made. Monday night we put it right side up and I mounted the spindles to the axle arms. I find it interesting that so much emphasis on ensuring the arms are parallel to one another is in the directions and then the spindle itself just bolts together with enough slop to undo all those efforts. Our plan is to check the toe again once we have the tires mounted and make adjustments as needed. I may end up welding a small spot between the arm and spindle plate to ensure it can’t rotate after.
Although I ordered a shackle tab from Ballistic Fabrication, I later decided that I wanted a hitch on the rear. This can not only be used as a recovery point, but offers more flexibility for things like a hitch mounted cooking station or even a small winch mount for swinging the trailer sideways on the trail.
Still waiting on the parts I ordered, I placed the front toolbox on the tongue again to check the mounting locations I added last week. I also needed clearances for the spare. This is also when I put some effort toward figuring out how I was going to keep the spare in place. I have planned since the beginning to use a strap over the top but I was still unclear on how I was going to keep it tight against the trailer face.
Another item I ordered from Ballistic Fab was some gussets that would be used with dual purpose. The obvious is to support the joint from the vertical to horizontal rack pieces. The second is the center hole will be used as a clearance light holder. (I know the LED in the picture is red… The amber LEDs hadn’t arrived and I was testing.)
Then, just about all of the parts showed up at once! Whenever we start a project like this “Brown Santa” becomes an everyday thing, but this was a bunch to get in one day and even the driver commented on it, wondering what we were up to. 😛
We received 2 sets of Maxtrax along with two sets of mounting pins, several L-Track tie-downs, a fuse/distribution box, switch/meter panel, seam sealer, and the flood lights that will go around the trailer. We also received a LubeLocker gasket but that is for Dirty. Yet to arrive is the L-Track itself and spare tire clamp/holder.
The following day we received the wheel spacers from Motorsport-Tech (A.K.A. BORA). They look great and fit perfectly. I have all the hub clearance I need and the grease cap will sit about 1/32″ proud of the wheel face which is exactly what I was looking for. With these now in hand, we can get turn this thing into a roller and move it around the shop easier.
We also received the L-track pieces but didn’t take some pics.
…. and finally today we received the spare tire mount I mentioned earlier. It’s an aluminum extrusion piece that will hold the spare tight against the front wall of the trailer while still allowing some vertical play for different tread depths. We will be holding the spare down with a heavy ratchet strap (BAJA style 😉 ).
While all the parts have been arriving, I have been hit-and-miss with the taillight mounts. We are using some lights that we already had. They are LED and have a nice narrow style.
To protect them on the trailer, I split some 2×2 tube and I am mounting them inside it. The wires will be protected as they are routed into the trailer via a small angle piece I cut. They are still pretty rough and a bunch more fab work is needed to complete them, but hopefully you will get the idea.
This weekend is Mrs. SSS’s birthday weekend so the focus is on her and whatever she wants to do. This may mean shop time or a hike, only time will tell. Stay tuned… more to come!
Does your airbag light come on and chime at you? Has your horn or steering wheel buttons stopped working? If you haven’t experienced your clockspring going out, you probably have heard about someone else’s as it is a common failure on JKs/JKUs. Clockspring failures are not an all or none situation. Some of the below symptoms can have other causes if they are occurring by themselves. However, if there are multiple things going on like you have little electrical gremlins. (BTW…Don’t give the JK a bath or feed it after midnight…) Look to the clockspring as the culprit.
horn stops working
cruise control stops working
radio control buttons stop working
airbag light on and chimes many, many, many times
windshield wipers and/or washer fluid sprays suddenly while driving
horn suddenly goes off while driving
It is important to note that if your airbag light is coming on, even if it is randomly happening, it is important to have it looked it as soon as you possibly can. There have been instances of the airbag not deploying during an accident, as well as, airbags deploying while driving without any impact or accident occurring. I don’t know about you but that would be one serious pucker moment if the airbag deploys spontaneously! 😯
Given the number of complaints from JK/JKU owners about the airbag issue, the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) performed multiple investigations. In the end, FCA issued a recall in May 2016 for certain 2011-2016 right hand drive models but it is only for the airbag failures. FCA has decided to take the situation a step further and extended the warranty coverage on the clockspring from the normal 3 years/36,000 miles to 15 years/unlimited miles.
We received the letter below advising of the coverage change.
They included with the letter a claim form for those that have already experienced issues with their clockspring outside of the original warranty period and had to pay for the repair. One thing to note is that they say “you may be eligible to receive a reimbursement” in the letter. You will need to complete the online form (www.fcarecallreimbursement.com) or mail in the completed claim form shown below and include the original receipts, invoices and/or repair order. I am guessing they know they will be inundated with these and state that your claim will be acted upon within 60 days of receipt.
What I find interesting is that they are only extending the coverage on this item IF the air bag light is on or if the air bag circuit is compromised. I guess it’s back to the old school way of tuning your radio and maintaining a constant speed of travel. Oh and don’t mind the wipers and washer fluid spontaneously blocking your view while driving. 🙄
What do you think? Let us know by commenting below.
I did my very best to capitalize on the warm weather we had this week and even took a vacation day Friday. The result is a fair amount of progress on our overland trailer. In fact, I almost worked myself out of work until a few more parts arrive.
What did I accomplish you ask? Well, for starters I modified the center-cap hole on the wheels to clear the EZ-Grease hub cap. I knew the clearance would be tight, but the JK center-cap hole was about 1/32″ – 1/8″ too tight. All that was really needed was to remove a small chamfer inside the hub. I did my best to get a picture of this, but it’s so little it’s hard to tell.
Another thing I needed to get going was some wheel spacers. I knew the JK wheels would not be able to swallow the depth of the trailer hub. My calculations on this were spot on. We needed at least 3/4″ more hub clearance. This said, I held off on ordering spacers because I also wanted to get the grease cap flush to just slightly protruding through the wheels when mounted and it would take 1 1/4″ to get this just right.
This will make more sense when you look at the hub below.
The custom spacers are now on order and should arrive Monday or Tuesday.
With this all figured out, I stopped by our local tire shop to have the tires mounted on the wheels. (Sorry, no pics)
I then began making some frame strengthening brackets for the Timbren arms. They have two mounting options: the outer bolts and frame stiffening brackets or the outer bolts and a tube to connect the two held in place by either bolting or welding. Since we know we will be beating on this trailer I opted for both.
The strengthening brackets themselves are 3/16″ plate with several gussets. I was pretty worried about all my layout work going to waste should my welding warp the thing out of wack, so I used several clamps to hold it in place while I welded it up and then left it clamped until completely cooled.
This worked well and I’m happy to report they remained flat and square! 🙂
Here is one all cleaned up and ready for install (front) and one just after being unclamped (rear).
While I was waiting on the frame supports to cool, I finished up the box framing. I still have one temporary support to remove, but decided to leave it on while we flipped the whole thing over for axle assembly.
Once the plates were cool and cleaned up, we flipped the trailer over. We also needed to get it out of the lift bay as Klondike is due for a tire rotation and I had some work to do on Dirty.
I’m not going to lie… We opted to weld on the frame support and then bolt the axles into place. It was VERY difficult to get the cross tube bolted on. If I ever do another one of these, I will up the tube wall and weld the tube in place as well. The only reason we didn’t do this is we wanted to be able to replace a single side if needed and not the pair.
Here is a shot of the frame support in place. Since I was worried about vibrations, I used lock washers and thread locker as well as the vertical bolts have locking nuts. This thing isn’t going anywhere!
While it was flipped over, I went ahead and worked on the bottom side of the tongue frame work. I added the rear support for the toolbox and some cross bracing that will double as a tie-down point for the spare tire. With the addition of these supports the frame is 99.63% done. 😛
This is where she sits. With the cold front moving in and some much needed family focus time, I doubt much more will be done over this weekend.
Before I flip it over, I want to get the rear hitch mounted but that shouldn’t take long.
As soon as the wheel spacers arrive, we can turn this into a rolling chassis. This will be nice, as this thing is about all we can handle as is moving around the shop.
We were very productive this weekend on our overland trailer “Ehu”. There is still a ton of work to be done in order to have it ready by late spring, but I think we will make it! This week’s warm weather sure is helping progress but part of me worries the cold will return about the time we are ready to paint. 🙄 I’m sure it will all work out… There is plenty of work to be done before that anyway, so there isn’t much point in stressing about it now.
As for the work this weekend… It started pretty early Saturday. So early that my first cup of coffee was made while watching the sun pop up. This is somewhat normal behavior for me when I have a bunch I want to accomplish, but it was assisted by Kegan’s alarm clock going off that he had forgotten to mute for the weekend.
Once I made my way into the shop, I got to work on cutting the pieces that would make up the storage box and rack. The outer walls of the box will be formed from 1.5″ angle, with exception to the corners that double as the rack uprights. The rack uprights and cross bars are 1.5″ square tube.
Once these pieces were made, it was time to tack and weld the structure together. We began with making the two sides. First, tacking it all together and then checking square before welding. Putting the cross bars for the front/back on was a bit tricky, but after I tacked some temporary scrap pieces in the corners and clamped a piece of angle between the two sides it was fairly manageable. The hardest part was getting it all together while maintaining square and plumb everywhere.
We had plans with friends Saturday evening, so other than cutting a few pieces for the trailer frame this is pretty much all that was accomplished before we needed to clean up.
Sunday started a bit later (just after sunrise). I got right to work on cutting the remaining pieces for the frame structure. The hardest part was the angled pieces at the front. I wanted these bars to match the angle of the tongue tool box, but also extend to the full width of the trailer. I had measured the box as best I could with a tape measure and drew it all in CAD, but when the result ended up being 31°/59° cuts, I assumed there was error in my tape measurements and they should be 30°/60°. This was a mistake that cost me a fair amount of time. Luckily, the error resulted in longer pieces than were needed so I was able to correct the angles to the crazy 31°/59° and fix the lengths.
Here is a picture of everything laid out, minus the main center tube that is 2x2x0.25″ tube. All of these pieces are also 2×2″ but 0.120″ wall.
…and now with the center tube in and all tacked up. This main tube is VERY heavy and frankly overkill for the trailer itself. The main reason we went with such a heavy piece is we envisioned a possible need to be pulled backward with the trailer attached. I haven’t decided if I will be adding a D-Ring tab or fixing a trailer receiver to the end for this purpose yet.
There will be a few more (lighter) supports in the front tongue area for the back of the toolbox and shelf just behind it. This shelf will likely become the home of the spare tire.
While I had been cutting, grinding, and welding, Alana (Mrs. SSS) was working her rear-end off cleaning up the wheels. The wheels had not been pre-treated prior to being sprayed with Plasti-Dip and it had been on for quite some time so the removal was fairly labor intensive. To be completely honest, I would’ve never gotten them to look this good… She is amazing!
She didn’t stop here either… While 4 of the tires that came with the wheels were completely used up, the spare has never seen the road. It already had the Plati-Dip removed and I thought it was okay, but it wasn’t up to Alana’s standards so she cleaned it up too.
Once I got the frame all welded up, it was time to join the box/rack with it. I ran out of time, but now the temporary pieces that were installed to keep the storage box and rack square can be removed. I don’t think they will be needed, but if there is any racking, I may install more permanent ones later.
The main tube is longer than what is needed for now. I wanted to make sure I had enough length in this tube to open the tailgate on Dirty with the trailer attached. The final length will be at the back of the tape-measure shown here.
As for what is next: I’m not sure. Part of me wants to get this thing rolling as it’s already a bear to move around in the shop, but adding the axle(s) will make it more difficult to get on it’s side to gain easier access for welding some of the structural pieces that are needed for the top and sides of the box. I also need to get the side doors temporarily mounted so I can locate the axles. I want to push them forward as far as possible to reduce some tongue weight and the front doors are the interference point.
Speaking of axles… look what UPS just dropped off. 🙂 These things contain much more beef than I had anticipated!